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Couple of watercooling questionsFollow

#1 Apr 06 2014 at 3:50 PM Rating: Good
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I've come to the end of what I can do with air cooling so now it's time to move to water cooling.

My first question is about the tubing, in my research I came across this tubing:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10688/ex-tub-660/Tygon_Silver_Antimicrobial_Tubing_-_14_ID_38_OD_-_Silver_AS600017.html?tl=g30c99s170

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11441/ex-tub-705/IandH_Silver_KillCoils_-_Antimicrobial_999_Fine_Silver_Tubing_Reservoir_Strip.html

Is algae a concern in a closed loop system and if so what do you think of the tubing or should I go with a kill coil ? I'll be using distilled water or I can use deionized water if you think that's better.

Second question is about the pump/reservoir, I have 2 contenders currently:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21021/ex-pmp-250/EK_Single_525_Bay_Reservoir_w_Dual_Serial_DDC_32_PWM_Pumps_Installed_EK-BAY_RES_Dual_DDC_32_PWM_Serial_incl_pump.html?tl=g30c107s152

This one I like due to the dual pump design and easy replacement of the pumps. Unfortunately it doesn't have status indicators.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14246/ex-res-314/Koolance_RP-1200_Reservoir_and_Pumps_in_525_Bay_-_Black.html?tl=g30c97s152

Now this one has the indicators and controls but only has a single pump and not easy to replace.

Thoughts, comments, and please no rude gestures. ;p
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#2 Apr 06 2014 at 8:39 PM Rating: Excellent
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If you are running a proper water cooling coolant with anti-fungal chemicals already in it, antifungal tubing is not even slightly a concern. I would definitely advise getting some sort of transparent tubing for your first water cooling build though. Makes troubleshooting much easier. Also, make sure you get the external jacket springs to slide over whatever tubing you get. Prevents kinks in the hose and lets you get much closer bends in your runs.

In a managed system, the only reason to have two pumps is if you want to have two separate coolant loops (to isolate thermal conditions for video cards and processor for example. In a single pump system, a pump failure will just prevent the system from starting up. I've never actually had a pump fail on me in 10 years of water cooling things for what its worth. I actually run that RP-1200 in my primary machine. You can see additional pictures of it in the build thread I posted in here somewhere in this forum if you want to see additional details. The managed features are definitely worth it in my opinion, and you can actually run a second external pump and control it through that unit if you ever wanted to. Replacing the pump requires about 4 screws, unplugging 2 wires, and undoing 2 hose clamps.

The secondary machine has an older INX 720 unit that is no longer produced.

With either one of those I'd recommend a secondary reservoir as well. Makes filling the system easier because you can turn the whole computer on its side, raise the reservoir outside the case up higher than the rest of the components, and fill from there. With priming as needed, etc.

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#3 Apr 07 2014 at 11:50 AM Rating: Good
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Thank you for the info on the antibac tubing, I didn't think I would need it but it never hurts to ask.

Hmm a dual loop system, I hadn't considered that application and it does present an interesting challenge for a future build. But for my current system a single loop will suffice.

As part of my research your thread http://ffxi.allakhazam.com/forum.html?forum=25&mid=1334800172147297359 was one of the one's I was referencing due to the similarities in systems.

Rampage Formula IV
Ivy Bridge i7-4820K (upgrades a few months ago)
Asus Matrix HD7970 P 3GD5 (also upgraded a few months ago)

At idle the CPU is about 28C and under load runs about 40-45C which is fine. The GPU however idles around 39C, various programs bump it up to 50-60C, and then there's FFXIV which runs at 70C.

While I don't need a excuse to upgrade its a nice incentive to do so. :)

Opps almost forgot this all lives in a HAF XM case.



Edited, Apr 7th 2014 11:14am by BoloDBM
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#4 Apr 07 2014 at 3:24 PM Rating: Good
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BoloDBM wrote:
Thank you for the info on the antibac tubing, I didn't think I would need it but it never hurts to ask.

Hmm a dual loop system, I hadn't considered that application and it does present an interesting challenge for a future build. But for my current system a single loop will suffice.

As part of my research your thread http://ffxi.allakhazam.com/forum.html?forum=25&mid=1334800172147297359 was one of the one's I was referencing due to the similarities in systems.

Rampage Formula IV
Ivy Bridge i7-4820K (upgrades a few months ago)
Asus Matrix HD7970 P 3GD5 (also upgraded a few months ago)

At idle the CPU is about 28C and under load runs about 40-45C which is fine. The GPU however idles around 39C, various programs bump it up to 50-60C, and then there's FFXIV which runs at 70C.

While I don't need a excuse to upgrade its a nice incentive to do so. :)

Opps almost forgot this all lives in a HAF XM case.

Those temps don't seem high enough for you to need watercooling, but Kao is a better judge than me.
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#5 Apr 07 2014 at 9:18 PM Rating: Excellent
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I'm a big fan of reducing noise, watercooling is always going to be quieter and more efficient if you have the skills to implement it and the budget for it. Once you're in, keeping it upgraded isn't too bad. The temperatures you have at the moment aren't horrible, though the 70c for FFXIV is a ways up there (that's 158f). Water cooling gives you better hardware longevity if you aren't overclocking, and if you are, lets you safely do so. It always amuses me when I see people saying "I overclocked just ine on air water cooling is for noobs!" and then 3 month later they post about how their hardware mysteriously fried itself heh.

Best advice I can give from my water cooling experience: Quick disconnect fittings are worth their weight in gold and will save you numerous hassles. I lucked out and got a huge pile of them cheap, but knowing what I know now I would have bought them full price. Probably not as many of them, but you get the idea.
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#6 Apr 08 2014 at 1:12 PM Rating: Good
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Like Kao I like a nice quiet system and for the most part my air cooling has been quiet. To cool the GPU below 70C I would have to manually set the fans to +50%, unfortunately the fans are shrieking louder then say umm Darqflame at a Quiet Riot concert. (I see poking around my thread Darq ;p)

I currently don't over clock, I may be a crazy taru but I'm not silly enough to overclock on a air cooled system thought that will change after moving to water cooled. Besides the latest bios offers a water cooling setting and I love to tinker around with new settings.

Yeah I'mma gonna be gettin a bunch of them there disconnect fittings as I'll probably be tinkering around with components till I'm satisfied. I'll begin ordering parts by the end of the week or start of next week haven't decided yet.

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#7 May 06 2014 at 1:06 PM Rating: Good
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Okay Kao, I'm ready for you to come and install the water cooling system. I have steaks on the barbie, beer chillin in ice or if your a techno geek sodas in the fridge and hot pockets in the microwave. Smiley: lol



Actually finished installing it yesterday, cpu idles at 26C and load 31C, gpu now is 27C and 41C under load. As far as noise its about on par with my old air cooled setup.

Still going to tinker with the setup a bit more but this is only Gungii's Water Build virgin 1.0000(dam that's alot of zeros)0000000. Smiley: eek
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#8 May 06 2014 at 5:40 PM Rating: Excellent
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Cool! You should post some pictures of the guts! Glad its working

Also, depending on your load and configuration you may be able to safely turn the pump down a few notches and get much quieter operation.
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#9 May 07 2014 at 12:22 PM Rating: Good
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For your viewing displeasure. Smiley: clown

http://gungii.smugmug.com/photos/i-6CKppkd/0/XL/i-6CKppkd-XL.jpg

I know I don't have jacket springs on the tubes yet that will come in virgin 1.0000(themzerosarebreedingagain)00003.

http://gungii.smugmug.com/photos/i-H9vhLkW/0/XL/i-H9vhLkW-XL.jpg

Solid copper, I was thinking of going with one of them there acrylic topped ones to add a LED to it but decided for a first build to stick to the K.I.S.S. method of building.

http://gungii.smugmug.com/photos/i-hVJvQrS/0/XL/i-hVJvQrS-XL.jpg

I initially had a 140 rear radiator but it was to big so I had to go with a 120 and still had to mount it outside. One thing I didn't think about was fans, all the ones I have are 4 pin fortunately I had a pair of 3 pin 120 Xigmatek from my old system that I swiped.

I should clarify when I said it was on par with my old air system is that it's so quiet you wouldn't know it was on without the case lights and monitors. It was the gpu fans ramping up under load that I could hear them.

Only problem I have currently is the bios, won't proceed though unless I have a fan connected to the cpu fan socket even when set to a water cooling.
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#10 May 07 2014 at 6:06 PM Rating: Excellent
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Nice job! Definitely not bad at all for a first water cooling build.

For round two, you might want to consider moving that rear radiator inside the case just to protect those fittings from being hit when you push the chassis back. The trick to it is mounting them like this: Screenshot using bolts that thread into the radiator, but are long enough to pass through the fan entirely, making a case back / fan / radiator sandwich. I think you're likely stuck with that top radiator on the outside unless you decide to get a taller case someday. I like those disconnect fittings too. Those are the 1 revision newer series than the ones I have on my rig.

You have big enough tubing that the jacket springs probably aren't going to be required. Tubing in the bends does tend to collapse flat over time without them, but your bend radius aren't sharp enough that they are going to be a major flow issue. I'd put them on anyways when you get a chance just to get in the habit of it. Also, what water cooling fluid are you using? is that something with anti fungal and anti-freeze additives in it, or is it straight water?

The trick to get it to stop complaining about the fan is to go into the "monitoring" section of the bios and set the fan speed monitor for CPU fan 1 and 2 to "ignore" "N/A" or "Not available" in bios. I forget which one it is, but I have basically the same motherboard you do, so I know it's there. You may have to be in advanced mode to see it. Once you turn that off you shouldn't get the message anymore.

Looks good! Nice job!
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#11 May 08 2014 at 2:34 AM Rating: Good
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Thank you, I was thinking in a push configuration but your idea should work. I'm more worried that the radiator or fittings will bump into the gpu, you can gauge it from the 2 photos in the taru twist link I sent ya. But that will have to wait till I get a couple more 3 pin fans, gaaaa all the times I spent hunting down 4 pin fans and now I'm back to 3 pin fans. Computers can be such cruel mistresses.

For the cooling fluid I'm using BRAWNDO the cooling Mutilator because it has Electrolytes and its what computers need. Smiley: lol

I did think of using distilled water with additives but ended up ordering Koolance LIQ-702 high performance coolant.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/6448/ex-liq-56/Koolance_High_Performance_Liquid_Coolant_Bottle_-_Clear_-_700cc_LIQ-702CL-B.html?tl=g30c337s890

I was looking in the Fan Speed control and hadn't looked in the others yet. I'll root around in it tomorrow/today to see what needs disabling but I'll have to wait for new fans as the rear radiator fan is 4 pin and hooked up to the cpu socket to make it work.
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#12 May 08 2014 at 12:05 PM Rating: Excellent
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Any of the 16x pci express slots in there will take that video card at full throughput. it doesn't have to be the top slot. That would mean extending the link to the video card though.

You can use 3 pin fans on the 4 pin headers. the 4th pin just gives the fan more controllable and precise throttling. 3 wires still gives the fan port voltage and tachometer lead, so the board can still adjust the speed up or down. Just make sure the 3 pin is centered on the plug guide and everything lines up fine.

Ok good. Just checking. sometimes people use tap water for their first cooling efforts and slime grows in it and it eats their water blocks and tubing from the inside. The Koolance stuff is great. I use the same stuff, just the blue colored variant. Mainly out of habit.

The rear fan in the CPU socket would still work at that point, just full throttle with no monitoring. You could also just adjust the RPM range down for that fan to whatever it thinks it should be.
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#13 May 09 2014 at 1:48 AM Rating: Good
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Ack forgot about the 16x in the number 3 pci slot, well it's been over a year since i first built it so I'm allowed to forget. Cool then swapping out the 120 radiator with the 140 radiator won't be a problem. Yeah I still have it, I didn't send it or the dual 140 back. Of course now I'll need to order 140 3 pin fans. I'll blame Wint for this. Smiley: oyvey

During the build I did contemplate stopping and ordering a larger case but by gummit I decided to push through. Beside this isn't just a gaming/work machine but the test bed for my next build 5 years or so down the line.

Like I said i did research on this so I knew not to use tap water, just dreaded have to mix the additives. Glad Koolance makes the premix and I get a cool bottle with a straw.Smiley: lol
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