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#1 May 26 2011 at 12:43 PM Rating: Excellent
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I've been having crap luck with google, so I figured I'd turn to the OoT in hope to make firefix my car.

My car suddenly shuts off when idle. I can keep it going as long as I keep my foot on the accelerator, and it seems to be just fine, but the second I lift my foot off of the pedal, it dies. I'm thinking it's the timing belt, which means $$$.

As a temporary fix, I wanted to see if there was an easy way to simply adjust the idle speed on the sucker so it stops shutting off on me. The idle speed on the car was always a bit low anyway, so it should be too much of an issue to raise it a smudgen to keep my car going. Unless, of course, it's a ***** to adjust and I'm royally f'ed.

Car is a 1997 Chevy Monte Carlo.

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#2 May 26 2011 at 12:50 PM Rating: Good
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Crossover cable.

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#3 May 26 2011 at 1:24 PM Rating: Decent
Go to one of the major auto parts chains. Some of them offer a free read your codes. They can plug into your car's computer and read the codes and see what the computer thinks is bad. Their's a good chance its your O2 sensor. It helps run your idle. They run around 60 bucks but require a special tool to remove and replace.

Edited, May 26th 2011 3:25pm by Tailmon
#4 May 26 2011 at 1:31 PM Rating: Decent
Tailmon wrote:
Their's a good chance its your O2 sensor. It helps run your idle.


Could also be a throttle position sensor. Either way, yeah, take it to a shop. Any reasonable shop won't charge (much) simply to read the codes.
#5 May 26 2011 at 1:36 PM Rating: Good
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It's not the timing belt.

Check your air filter. If it hasn't been changed in a while it might be clogged with crap which can choke your engine. A new air filter should run you $10 or so.

Adjusting the idle is easy as I understand it, but I don't know how to do it. For older cars, idle speed could be tweaked by tightening/loosening a certain cable. For modern cars I have no frigging clue. Unless the idle speed has drifted over time, changing it is only going to mask the underlying problem. Maybe something in the fuel injection system.

When's the last time you had a tuneup?
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#6 May 26 2011 at 2:16 PM Rating: Excellent
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My last tune up was in uh...March? I still haven't hit the mileage for a new tune up. Had changed the air filter and some other crud there at the time, too.

Hoping it's just a sensor. My budget can only afford so much.

Changing the idle is easy on a carborator car...but this hoe is fuel injection. Have a feeling the idle is computerized which would make it nigh impossible to tweak.

I'm also afraid my car will explode if I "ghetto drive" it, as my roomie put it...one leg on the breaks, the other on the gas to keep her going.
#7 May 26 2011 at 2:27 PM Rating: Good
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Like someone else mentioned, it's not your timing belt. If it were your car wouldn't even run. You're looking at anything from as simple as a vacuum leak, to as complicated as one of your sensors. Do you have a check engine light on at all?
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#8 May 26 2011 at 2:38 PM Rating: Excellent
Hey, Pedro, try not driving around with 14 people inside of it and a mattress on the roof.
#9 May 26 2011 at 2:52 PM Rating: Decent
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Do you have to boost it to start it? Alternator.

Otherwise it's most likely one of the sensors on your fuel system. Idle sensor, O2 sensor are good culprits. You're starving the engine of fuel so something is telling your ECM that you either have more/less air or your RPM is higher/lower than it is. It's not timing, giving it gas wouldn't fix that.
#10 May 26 2011 at 3:32 PM Rating: Decent
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#11 May 26 2011 at 3:48 PM Rating: Good
Mine choked when idle but never fully stalled, and it turned out that an auxiliary fan had died. Replacing that fan not only fixed the choking problem, but also gave my AC a nice boost since that's the fan that cooled off the air compressor.
#12 May 26 2011 at 4:07 PM Rating: Good
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Outside of entertainment, further replies are pointless until we know whether or not he has a check engine light. His car is a 97 which is definitely an OBD2 vehicle.
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#13 May 26 2011 at 5:37 PM Rating: Excellent
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Your car is turning into Christine.
#14 May 26 2011 at 5:39 PM Rating: Good
catwho wrote:
Mine choked when idle but never fully stalled, and it turned out that an auxiliary fan had died. Replacing that fan not only fixed the choking problem, but also gave my AC a nice boost since that's the fan that cooled off the air compressor.
I'm actually surprised that your biggest car problems don't involve some combination of beer and telephone poles.
#15 May 26 2011 at 5:47 PM Rating: Good
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Your car is turning into Christine.
Better take it to Darnell's.
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#16 May 27 2011 at 8:38 AM Rating: Excellent
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Lubriderm, Star Breaker wrote:
Hey, Pedro, try not driving around with 14 people inside of it and a mattress on the roof.


Smiley: lol!!!!!!!


Nah, don't have to boost to start it and the check engine light IS on...probably just a sensor then.

Thanks for the help, guys. Smiley: smile
#17 May 27 2011 at 11:03 AM Rating: Good
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When my pimpin' 97' Grand Voyager started doing that to me we replaced the cam and crank sensor and everything seemed to work fine again. I don't really know what those do or what it means for you as I have absolutely no automotive experience or if it is even really relevant to your situation.
#18 May 27 2011 at 11:15 AM Rating: Decent
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Just steal a new car. It isn't like you paid for your current one, right?
#19 May 27 2011 at 1:10 PM Rating: Excellent
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I'd bet money on the Mass Airflow sensor if it were me. Or if you are really unlucky, it could be something in the transmission.
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#20 May 27 2011 at 1:43 PM Rating: Excellent
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While one or several of the preceeding ideas may be right, My Occam's Auto Maunual says check the fuel filter first.
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#21 May 27 2011 at 3:48 PM Rating: Decent
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Exodus wrote:
Changing the idle is easy on a carborator car...but this hoe is fuel injection. Have a feeling the idle is computerized which would make it nigh impossible to tweak.


This. You're not going to be able to adjust the idle without access to more advanced equipment than what would be needed to just tell you what's wrong with the car in the first place.

Take it to a shop. They'll plug into the OBD port and read whatever code your car is sending and that will tell them what's likely to be wrong. In most cases, a low/stalling idle is going to be a vacuum seal, sensor, or filter somewhere. Those are cheap. If you're unlucky, it could be some other component that's drawing too much energy from the engine (like the aux fan someone mentioned earlier) and causing a stall at idle. That can be anywhere from relatively cheap (like replacing a fan or a cable needing tightening), to expensive (transmission is bad, compression low, etc).

But all the speculation in the world wont replace 30 seconds hooked up to a diagnostic machine. If you don't trust mechanics, you could always order one of these. Yes. I saw an informercial on the damn thing a few days ago. Sue me! It'll be cheaper to just take it into a shop though.
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#22 May 27 2011 at 5:08 PM Rating: Decent
Lubriderm, Star Breaker wrote:
catwho wrote:
Mine choked when idle but never fully stalled, and it turned out that an auxiliary fan had died. Replacing that fan not only fixed the choking problem, but also gave my AC a nice boost since that's the fan that cooled off the air compressor.
I'm actually surprised that your biggest car problems don't involve some combination of beer and telephone poles.


Yeah, yeah. I've got a new rule about only drinking at home. Cheaper, and less dangerous to others. (And myself.) Hell, I even wait til I reach a destination before I take cold medicine these days.

Amusingly, everyone in America considers himself or herself to be an "above average" driver. Only half of them actually are.

Currently I'm technically on the above average side due to 0 tickets and/or accidents while I was at the wheel. I'd like to keep it that way.

#23 May 27 2011 at 5:35 PM Rating: Good
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catwho wrote:

Currently I'm technically on the above average side due to 0 tickets and/or accidents while I was at the wheel. I'd like to keep it that way.


Yeah, but you're a woman. Zing!
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#24 May 27 2011 at 5:48 PM Rating: Decent
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Exodus wrote:
Lubriderm, Star Breaker wrote:
Hey, Pedro, try not driving around with 14 people inside of it and a mattress on the roof.


Smiley: lol!!!!!!!


Nah, don't have to boost to start it and the check engine light IS on...probably just a sensor then.

Thanks for the help, guys. Smiley: smile

Any reputable auto parts store will be able to scan your codes for free. My bet is your TPS sensor.
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#25 May 28 2011 at 9:59 PM Rating: Excellent
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Love you Kastigir, but I am agreeing with Kao on this one. A friend had an expedition that did that, was her MAF sensor. When my TPS went out it caused the car to not shift properly. However, TPS is really cheap!
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#26 May 28 2011 at 10:03 PM Rating: Excellent
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Mistress Darqflame wrote:
When my TPS went out it caused the car to not shift properly. However, TPS is really cheap!


That issue could have been easily avoided if you had just remembered to put the cover sheet on before you started driving.

Edited, May 29th 2011 11:26am by Shaowstrike
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