Need car tech support - automatic transmissionsFollow

Sounds like you blew a seal.

Now that we've gone into your personal life enough, your car sounds like you fuc'king blew overdrive on it. Try shifting manually from 1 to 2 to D (no square, also known as fu'cking 3rd). D with a square is "overdrive" (the gear OVER drive. Clever, eh? It's also know as fu'cking forth)

Also, I don't see in your list of things changed that you fu'cked with the automatic transmission filter. YOU HAVE TO REPLACE THIS EVERY 50,000 miles, or when you change your tranny oil. They say 100,000, but fu'ck that. It's called preventative maintenance (or I'll forget when it hits that mark.)

EDIT: speling pwns me
EDIT EDIT: Fu'ck you you fu'cking new fu'cking swearing filter. I'll fu'ck you till the fu'cking fu'cks fu'cked the fu'cking fu'ckers right up their fu'cking asses!

Edited, Sun Apr 30 22:00:00 2006 by Molish

Even though that car is a giant piece of sh'it, you still should be able to do 70 at about 4/4.5K RPM's (depending on your car and it's condition). It'll sound high and whiney, and you better make DAMN sure you have a full oil reserve, but it'll handle it.

If it has under 250,000 miles, that is. Otherwise, stop being a cheep ******* and find another 500$ junker.

I go through POS cars like fu'cking cheep tricks. (Associated disease and used jokes after this line)
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EDIT: Not too sure about the RPM calculations. The only way to know is to find out yourself. BE SURE TO LISTEN TO YOUR MOTOR WHILE YOUR DRIVING!! Any progressive whining that starts to get louder and louder means your about to fu'cking blow that old bit'ch. Don't play loud music and ignore the problem like my fu'cking redneck brother who pushed an old station wagon to 105 in 3rd gear and claims "I didn't hear anything because the radio was loud" when a ******* piston blew through the hood (supposedly, I never saw the car. but it was never driven after that, so I'm inclined to believe.)

Edited, Sun Apr 30 22:20:50 2006 by Molish

Ok, so what exactly does blowing overdrive up do. Is there an internal seal inside the case that potentially no longer exists? The transmission itself is not leaking, so the external case seals are intact. The filter and transmission oil were both replaced at 75k miles, The car is now at 110k miles.

mechanically, what is likely not happening in there with the overdrive that should be happening? I was able to shift from D to 2 to 1 ok.

I'm hopeing to have this car not explode until about 7 months from now when the last of the student loans is over halfway paid off. That or convince allakhazam that the "Have kaolian drive a sports car with Allakhazam's magical realm logo on it would be great advertising" program would be a really good idea. I'm guessing that's a long shot though.

Edit: the car does have a tachometer, and I was listening to engine pitch. The pitch got about up as high as the tachometer was indicating the RPM's i've definitly heared it higher before.

Edited, Sun Apr 30 22:15:51 2006 by Kaolian

Nothing, unless the gear breaks loose (not likely). You'll know when that happens. Ever lock up your brakes doing 60? Same thing, only just the drive tires (front wheel drive, front tires lock up, ect)

OR it could just grind up the broken gear and your tranny = fu'cked (more likely then brakes locking up, but still a 1% IF that of ever happening).

Like I said, not very likely. maybe a 1% chance of that ever happening, or less. What it will do is eat MAJOR mileage on the highway (no gear over drive to shift to and lower RPM's. higher RPM = higher gas consumption).

Other things to worry about is motor stress. Your car is use to reliving the stress by shifting into crusing gear (AKA, 4th. Or fu'cking D with a square, whatever). Make sure your oil is keep up to proper levels, use the shifter to switch from 1 to 2 to D (3rd, no fu'cking square). I hope to god you have a center console shifter (on the floor) and not on the steering wheel.

I pity for you if the latter is true.

EDIT: WTF is cursing gear? Fu'cking polish.....
EDIT EDIT: Forgot, most modern day Trannys don't really do that anymore (lock up drive tires in the event of a catastrophic gear failure).

Edited, Sun Apr 30 22:26:11 2006 by Molish

You don't have too much to worry about then. Just remember to LISTEN to your car. The sounds it makes on the road can divulge a plethora of problems to you before they become critical, or before they become so critical they leave you stranded somewhere in bum-fu'ck egypt.

High pitch whining is what your MAINLY looking for, coming from the from under the hood (oil breaking down because of too much heat from high RPM's constantly. It will thin the protective layer of oil that stops your piston from touching the walls of the housing and seizing up the motor.)

just fu'cking PM me how. it took my retarded *** about a month of trying before I figured out how to do it the old way

EDIT: forgot to clarify, the whining is the piston barely touching the piston wall. That mean STOP and turn off car NOW (if possable) to let it cool. Start it up again and shift through first gear. If you hear the whine again, sux 2 b3 j00! It's damaged badly and limp her as far as she can get ya. More then likey, you've damaged the walls of the piston shaft and it will need to be re-bored. Expensive, and time consuming. In other words, buy a new POS.

If no noise, then drive her at a nice LOW RPM. Get back, check oil, and start looking for a new car pronto. She will last, mabey, untill you get it.

Edited, Sun Apr 30 22:45:13 2006 by Molish

Another vote for overdrive. When my old Altima went, the engine would 'randomly' die while driving. One minute I'd be coasting along doing 70mph and the next I'd still be coasting -- literally -- because I was at 0 RPMs and trying to get over onto the shoulder. Turned out the overdrive was going out and stalling the engine when it tried to shift.

What this has to do with you is that my mechanic said "Well, try just driving it without the overdrive and it shouldn't stall". Which was true but it also meant my car had to go to about 5.5k RPMs just to hit 60-65mph. This wasn't acceptable and, given the cost of replacing the transmission, I just bought a new car. For me, "without the overdrive" meant hitting a little button on the gearshift, for you, it's the "D" with no square.

In short, the "capping out at 60mph" sounds a lot like what my car was doing without the overdrive. My guess is that yours is just blown altogether instead of slowly dying out like mine was.

Well shoot. I don't want to buy a real car right now. How does one fix a broken overdrive anyways?

Like the others have stated, it sounds as if at the very least, overdrive is blown. I would also imagine that your tranny is probably starting to slip as well. Only option would be to replace/rebuild the tranny, and is probably not worth it on a 14 year old car. You might be able to pick up a used tranny fairly cheap at a salvage yard. If you're really not wanting to pick up a new car, that's probably your best bet.

Overdrive is an automatic thing. Older cars have a "D(overdrive\4th)" with a square around it on the shifter console, then the normal "d (drive\3rd)", then 2 and 1 (depending on the car). Newer cars have the little button that says "O\D" or "O\D off" on this shifter.

Normal driving = "D"
Pulling a load (towing) = "d"
Ice and rain starts (from dead stop) = 2

Overdrive is forth gear. Depending on how your car shifts, it might be in overdrive doing 45. A car will automatically try to go into the gear that will give it the lowest RPM to save gas (and engine wear and tear, sort of). My 96 cougar goes alittle like

0-10 = 1st gear
10-25ish = 2nd gear
25-35\40 = 3rd gear
40 on up = 4th gear

Thats normal driving. If I'm hammering it

0-20ish = 1st
20-35ish = 2nd
35-50ish = 3rd
50-70ish = 4th
(haven't looked to closely lately, so they may be abit off)

Your car automatically switches into "d (drive\3rd)" from "D(overdrive\4th)" when passing (pressing on the accelerator hard). This is called downshifting. It delivers more power at a higher RPM and gas consumption.

man... I should just give up trying to be a network admin and be a fu[red][/red]cking redneck repair shop.

EDIT: 96 cougar, not 91.

Edited, Mon May 1 00:20:44 2006 by Molish

Disclaimer: I’ve only worked on a transmission once, it was a rear-wheel-drive, and I don’t know if any of this applies to front-wheel-drive cars. It was a huge pain in the rear, and I had some help from a friend of my parents, or I would have been screwed.



If you’re going to fix it, you have 3 options.

First option:
You take it to the shop and they charge you more that the car worth for the repair, most of the bill is for labor.

Second option:
You get to go buy/ barrow a bunch of tools that you probably don’t own now. Most notably a cherry picker (not sure if that’s the official term for it) to pull/hoist the engine and transmission out of the car, and you’ll need the alignment tool when you put the transmission and engine back together. Those are just the tools I know of, more than a few cars I’ve owned over the years have some weird part that requires a specific tool that most people, that aren’t mechanics just don’t own. You have a torque-wrench, right? You will also need a Haynes or Chilton book for your car, these books tell you how to take your car apart and put it back together, down to the last bolt. After you think you have all the tools you need, you head to the wrecking yard and pickup a replacement transmission, bring a few friends, transmissions are HEAVY. Plan on it taking 2 full days to complete, especially if you have never done this before. If you know what you’re doing and have all the replacement parts and tools on-hand before you start, it should only take a day.

Third option:
The same as option 2, except you try to rebuild the transmission yourself. After you disassemble the transmission and find out what’s wrong, pray the dealership has the defective part in stock, or that’s its still available somewhere, even if it has to be shipped in. Oh, and you’ll need another book on transmissions.

If you elect to try the second or third option, read the books first, if they are talking about tools and terminology that you don’t understand, you had better start researching before you start taking stuff apart.

My best advise, would to go buy another POS, as others have said. The time and frustration aren’t worth it, even if you are mechanically inclined. What happens if the engine starts going out after you spend all this time/money fixing your car?

No, no, no!

Ok, let me try this again. That little button, it TURNS OFF\disengages overdrive.

Over drive is just a fancy name for your 4th gear. With forth gear turned off\disengaged; you only have 1st, 2nd, and 3rd. With only the three gears, your engine won't have 4th gear (overdrive). It will then sit in really high 3rd (if your trying to go around 60-65mph) and waste lots of gas because high RPM = high gas consumption.
Also, it'll stress the motor a decent bit, depending on how high the RPM goes and how long you drive it like that.

When over drive is ON (normal driving conditions you are used to), the car shifts from 1st, to 2nd, to 3rd, then into 4th\(overdrive).

That Kao's problem, his overdrive (4th gear) blew the fu[red][/red]ck up.

Make sure your park break is released.

No, never read the long *** OP because frankly, I could not have helped.