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#1 Apr 07 2004 at 1:34 AM Rating: Good
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I know there used to be a topic already about what I'm about to ask on the old board. But I can't remember how far back it was from so I'm just going to ask here.

I've recently seriously considered getting my motorcycle lisence, but I've never rode before, and obviously haven't got a bike yet.

Does anyone have any suggestions on a relatively cheap bike that would be good for someone starting out? I would prefer a sport bike over touring (that the name?) but if it looked good I'd still consider either.

Second question, are there any tips on things you should be absolutely certain of knowing when you go for your test?

Thank ya
#2 Apr 07 2004 at 2:21 AM Rating: Good
You're welcome.
#3 Apr 07 2004 at 4:58 AM Rating: Decent
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I too was considering getting my bike lisence, then I started working in the Hospital ER about two years ago. I'm still in the ER, still working nights and I won't be getting a bike lisence any time soon.

We call Motorcycles: Donorcycles

If you're still keen, go for a Tourer over a Sports bike, your shoulders, wrists and back will thank you.

A tip you need to know: People in cars, trucks, buses and any other vehicle, will most likely not see you, next to them, when they go to change lanes.
#4 Apr 07 2004 at 8:34 AM Rating: Decent
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Quote:
People in cars, trucks, buses and any other vehicle, will most likely not see you, next to them, when they go to change lanes.


And if they are like me, they will immediatly change lanes right in front of you if you are riding a crotch rocket.

Hey, I'm insured.
#5 Apr 07 2004 at 8:36 AM Rating: Good
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I've been riding for over 20 years, most of it spent in and around the NY metropolitan area, which is probably the worst place to ride in the country. I commute daily on my motorcyle weather permitting (and I'll ride in almost any weather that doesn't include ice). I've managed to avoid serious injury, but I've had some close calls.

The very first thing you want to do is to take the Motorcycle Safety Foundation's Rider Safety Course. This link... http://www.msf-usa.org/ will help you find one in your state. Most courses will provide you with a motorcycle to take the course on, so you don't have to own one to take it.

Don't skip this! You are far, far more likely to end up in lagduff's ER if you don't take this course. What they taught me has probably saved my life half a dozen times. It's an excellent course.

I don't know what kind of money you have to spend for a bike, but assuming price is no object don't go out and by the biggest, fastest bike around. If you do, you'll probably end up in lagduff's ER. Even small bikes today are plenty fast and loads of fun to ride.

My neice took up riding last year. The bike I suggested for her was the Suzuki SV650. (http://www.suzukicycles.com/Products/SV650SK4/)

Its relatively inexpensive, handles well, has very good brakes, provides plenty of usable power, but is not intimidating. The link shows the SV650S, which comes with a small fairing. They also make (or made) the SV650, which came with no fairing and slightly taller handlebars. If that's what you prefer, scout around there should be plenty of them out there.

Comfort on any bike depends on your stature and the bike itself. I've always been comfortable on sportbikes despite being tall and large. To avoid putting lots of weight on your wrists, you need to learn to grip the gas tank with your knees and use the large muscles in your back to hold yourself up. But that's only while you're going slow. Once you're up to highway speed your chest will be supported by a nice pillar of air coming over the fairing.

Second question, are there any tips on things you should be absolutely certain of knowing when you go for your test?

Tests vary from state to state, but make sure all your paperwork is in order. In NY all motorcycle registrations expire at the end of April every year. I didn't know this when I bought my first bike here (in the month of May) and assumed that I'd actually get the year's worth of registration that I had paid for. So when I showed up for my test a couple months later it had expired. Oh, on a side note, don't curse out the State Trooper that's giving you the test. It won't help.



And if they are like me, they will immediatly change lanes right in front of you if you are riding a crotch rocket.

Hey, I'm insured.


Of course making a statement like this before witnesses can move such actions into the criminal realm.

In any event, you have to be careful. People won't see you even when they look right at you. Assume that you are invisible and that people are out to kill you. A healthy does of paranoia is a good thing when you ride.

Edited, Wed Apr 7 09:39:13 2004 by Deathwysh
#6 Apr 07 2004 at 8:38 AM Rating: Decent
yes driving a motorcycle is alot more dangerous then cars but its totally badass when your going 85 down a road, from what my friends say it alot funner if your going 150 down the highway but i nvr have.
#7 Apr 07 2004 at 8:44 AM Rating: Decent
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yes driving a motorcycle is alot more dangerous then cars but its totally badass when your going 85 down a road, from what my friends say it alot funner if your going 150 down the highway but i nvr have.

I have. And its a blast. But you have to choose when and where to do that sort of thing carefully. Very carefully.
#8 Apr 07 2004 at 9:20 AM Rating: Good
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Deathwysh wrote:
But you have to choose when and where to do that sort of thing carefully. Very carefully.


Yes, you do. My dad was killed driving his motorcycle down the highway. He was an excellent driver but a combination of his speed and another driver's stupidity left him dead in the ditch. So think about that.

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#9 Apr 07 2004 at 12:03 PM Rating: Decent
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I wanted to get a motorcycle when I was a teenager. A friend of mine tried giving me lessons on his bike. I was on for all of 30 minutes when I confused the brake and the gas while making a turn. I slid through the intersection and over a 4" curb with the bike on top of me. Never been on one since.
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#10 Apr 07 2004 at 12:14 PM Rating: Good
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Now you all know these weren't quite the replies I was looking for to inspire confidence ;) Aside from Deathwysh, thank you for the answers, much appreciated. I guess I should've mentioned I'm in Canada, so the course doesn't help me. But there are some around that I can look into.

Just for the record though, I'm not looking to be badass or anything of the sort. All I'm looking for is a way to go back and forth to the beach and other summer fun without having to pay an arm and a leg on gas. Plus can't beat the air conditioning ;)
#11 Apr 07 2004 at 4:12 PM Rating: Excellent
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So I made a quick turn-around in two weeks. What can I say? I'm good.

I just wrecked (more or less totaled) my bike about a week and a half ago. I was doing 20 or so through a parking lot, someone pulled out in front of me, I hit the front brake and slid on gravel. Bike and I slid about 20-30 feet. I twisted my wrist and ankle a bit, and that was it.

Buy safety gear, and wear it. My gloves, helmet, and jacket paid for itself. If you're going to be riding in warmer weather, get one of those nifty kevlar jackets with vents and body armor. If it's colder weather, a nice leather jacket. Don't get thick winter gloves. Get thinner (once again kevlar or leather); you can always wear liners inside. Definitely, DEFINITELY a full-face helmet. It keeps the wind out of your eyes when you're doing 90-130, and when you're sliding face first, you'll appreciate it. Boots and at least jeans.

Whatever bike you get won't matter too much, just make sure it's something you won't mind never seeing again. You will lay it down. You'll forget to put the kickstand down when you stop for gas, just "oops" and lose your balance at a stop sign, slide it on gravel at 4 MPH, whatever. You're going to drop it.

People don't ride because it's economical. Don't try to ********* Riding is FUN. Sure, it's cheap on gas, but you're going to be finding every excuse possible to go out for a ride. So get a bike that you're going to be able to have fun with, but not something you'll try to outrun the cops with. 500-650CCs should be fine. I'm small, so I got myself a '90 Kawasaki EX 500. Next one will be a Honda CBR600RR. Just don't spend more than $1500 or so on your first bike. You'll regret it.

I never took a safety course ****** I never got a license -- just a permit). A permit was $10 at the DMV. No test, no course, nothing. Just $10. Find a friend who already knows how to ride and have them show you the ropes in an empty parking lot. Try to stay away from the sport bikes while learning -- they're really, really touchy.

Know when to play around and when not to. I know you're going to play around -- why else get a bike? Just know when you can get away with it.

Trust your tires. The biggest bit of advice I can give with any bike is TRUST YOUR TIRES. I've heard too many stories about people taking a turn too fast, freaking out and hitting a brake or some ******** like that. Just learn to lean hard and trust your tires. Remember, chicken strips are for chickens. ;)

Shoot me an IM at Monsieur Spider if you have any newbie questions -- still a newbie rider myself technically, but I've been through it all. Rode from PA to Florida after three days on a bike.

Praetorian
#12 Apr 07 2004 at 7:55 PM Rating: Excellent
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Quote:

Does anyone have any suggestions on a relatively cheap bike that would be good for someone starting out?


I'd suggest a Mid 90's Honda Nighthawk. They're dirt cheap (2-4k), require very little maintenance, and are sporty enough to sate your desire for speed for quite a while. They have a relatively low center of gravity, and are fairly light, which decreases the likelihood of you dropping the bike. They are 'flickable' enough for you to appreciate their cornering ability. And when you graduate to a newer, more powerful bike in 6 months, they'll probably be worth what you paid... maybe a little more.

Quote:
I would prefer a sport bike over touring (that the name?) but if it looked good I'd still consider either.


There are literally dozens of classifications of bikes. I'd say the four main varieties are:

1. Cruisers. These bikes are usually V-twins, large bore, slow, underpowered, anemic, have lots and lots of chrome, and are usually ridden by leather clad mid-40's tattoo adorned yuppies with varying degrees of facial hair- usually wearing skullcaps. Most school buses could outcorner them.

2. Sport bikes. Commonly referred to as 'Crotch Rockets'. The bikes are usually ridden by young men with small penises who are fond of plastering various Japanese Kanji all over their roadrashed fairings. The performance modern sport bikes are capable of is mindboggling, but is rather pointless unless you take the bike to a track. There simply isn't need for 180+ horsepower (at the crank) for riding on the street.

3. Touring. Big 2-wheeled behemoths. Think 'Goldwing'. They are built for the express purpose of traveling great distances with a minimum of discomfort.

4. Sport touring. This is the fastest growing segment of the 4 types of bike I've mentioned, but still accounts for the least amount of riders. This type of bike is exactly what it sounds like; a hybrid of a 'Touring' bike and a 'Sport bike'. BMW makes a lot of Sport Tourers. Other examples would be the Honda VFR Interceptor, Yamaha FJR1300, Kawasaki ZZR1200, and the Yamaha FZ1. These bikes are usually relatively agile and very powerful, but are still comfortable enough to enjoy day long rides. The downside is that a jack of all trades is master of none.

Quote:
are there any tips on things you should be absolutely certain of knowing when you go for your test?


I'd suggest you take the MSF Class (Motorcycle Safety Foundation). This is a 2 day class that can be taken in lieu of the 'Driving Exam' (You must still take the written exam at the DMV). Most states honor this program.

I guarantee you will learn things at MSF. For example... If you are on the freeway and turn the handlebars to the left, which direction will the bike go? If your fish-tailing what should you do? If you are going through a corner too hot, what should you do (or more importantly, what should you NOT do)?

If you decide to take the driving exam at the DMV, borrow the smallest bike you possibly can. The test includes a lot of 'low speed maneuvering' type of stuff which is extremely difficult on a large bike.

As for the written DMV exam, 5 minutes of studying almost guarantees you pass. Download a couple study guides.

Miscellaneous things you should know about bikes:

They're not as cheap as you might think. Tires for Sport Tourers and Sport Bikes will last no more than 10,000 miles, and you can expect to pay almost $300 for a new set (after mounting). You typically have to replace the chain and sprockets on most bikes at or around 20k, depending on how faithfully you have oiled them. Some bikes require valve adjustments every 4k miles, other bikes, like the R1, only need them every 28k miles. You have to worry about things like fork oil, lubing cables, and you'll need to replace your brakes every 10-30k miles. Also keep in mind that bikes usually don't last 200k miles like most newer cars do.

All of these things won't matter much if you are only going to be a 1-percenter, a person that only gets on the bike once a week to impress the neighbors while puttin' down to the local Circle K to buy diapers. However, if you ride the bike regularly, it can become a nuisance, not to mention costly.

You are a fool if you think you are going to save a lot of money because bikes get such good gas mileage.

#13 Apr 07 2004 at 8:03 PM Rating: Excellent
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Trust your tires


Excellent advice. Tires are almost never the weak link. Tires on bikes are insanely sticky (excluding cruisers, of course).

You can wrap yourself around corners so tightly that the edges of the tire will start to melt and bubble, but assuming you don't run across gravel, anti-freeze, water, oil, whatever, you can rest assured that it won't be your tires' fault when you lowside. It will be yours.

It's almost never a lack of stickiness that causes a person to eat it around a corner. It's usually road condition, target fixation (driver error), understeering (driver error), or dragging hard parts (which levers the tires off the ground- also driver error).

Also remember that the faster you go around a corner the more traction your tires actually have.
#14 Apr 07 2004 at 9:03 PM Rating: Good
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Buy a beat up 100cc dirtbike for $300, ride it untill you can turn with no hands and then go get a lisence.

Most important thing to learn when you're first learning how to ride is that unless you're going under 5mph you're not STEERING a god damn thing. You might be turning, but you're not sterring. Remember that, and the fact that to turn right you're actually steering the bike slightly to the left and vice versa and you'll be fine.

Clutch will take you an hour to figure out if you've never driven a manual transmission car or anything simmilar.

Whatever you buy, you'll want a new (more powerfull) one in a year anyway so don't go crazy. Thundra's suggestion is a good one, and really any 500cc sport bike with hydraulic valves is going to be fine for you.

Really, though, I'd go with the dirtbike if you don't live in the middle of a massive city. It's a lot easier to learn when you're not in trafffic and when you can just pick the bike up if you fall down.

Besides if you don't start with dirt bikes you probably wouldn't ever high side a bike or a have a really convincing fall untill you had more acceleration at your disposal than most sports cars.

Edited, Wed Apr 7 22:02:14 2004 by Smasharoo
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#15 Apr 07 2004 at 11:56 PM Rating: Good
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Thanks a ton for the replies, definitely helps to have something in particular to think about. I actually really was thinking it'd be more fuel efficient during the summer just doing runs to the beach or whatever, when I pay about 50 canadian to fill the tank on my car from empty. Granted, it's a beast... but still. Thanks for the heads up on the other costs included though. Never even thought of them.

And Smasharoo, I've been driving a manual transmission in a car since I was 16 so hopefully that won't be to much of a problem for me. Unless it's quite different on a bike? With the obvious exception of it being hand operated instead of by pedal.

Edited, Thu Apr 8 00:58:28 2004 by Lowwatt
#16 Apr 08 2004 at 1:06 AM Rating: Excellent
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It's no more difficult to use the clutch on a bike than it is a clutch on a car. Well, except for drag-racing and whatnot. The margin of error while dragging the modern metric liter bikes is miniscule.

If you want a true 'econo-bike', I'd suggest a Honda Pacific Coast.

It's shaft-driven (no sprockets or chain) and has hydraulic valves. And I believe that Metzeler Marathons are a tire option, thus allowing you to potentially get as many as 30k out of a set of rubber.

The bike is, maintenance-wise, the closest thing there is to a car.

The downside is the bike ain't exactly sexy.

I think that in the long run you're better off with a Nighthawk.
#17 Apr 08 2004 at 1:11 AM Rating: Excellent
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Lowwatt, you say you live in Canada? Ok, so you have a riding season of, what, three weeks before the bike goes back into storage?

First off, pay no attention to the "donorcycle" hysteria. I too work at a hospital and I can tell without a doubt that automobile drivers are far more likely to be in an accident from tuning the radio, talking on the phone, DWO, or chewing on a burger and fishing around for that french fry that fell between your legs.

Cycle riders, on the other hand, will tending to drive fast, have all their faculties focused on the road. We stop faster, accelerate quicker, turn sharper, and if you ride with your high beams on, greatly reduce the chances of someone not seeing you.

Totem
#18 Apr 08 2004 at 1:05 PM Rating: Good
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You're right, that's not very appealing. I guess I'll just have to keep in mind the costs is all. Now that I know they're there, it won't be a surprise if it were to come up.


Quote:
Lowwatt, you say you live in Canada? Ok, so you have a riding season of, what, three weeks before the bike goes back into storage?


Hardy har har ;)
It would probably be more around, middle/end of march to end of August thank you very much.

I'm not too worried about the "donorcycle" thing though. I mean obviously I don't want to wipe out or anything, that goes without saying. But I can see how it would be more likely to be a bad accident if you were in one. Just cause you've nothing encasing you, so you're out in the open. I'm just not really worried, because I already know it's there.
#19 Apr 09 2004 at 3:36 AM Rating: Decent
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Motorcycle rider for 30 years... if you want to do it don't let anyone scare you out of it.
It is a fantastic feeling to ride day or night, rain or shine...summer or winter.
It is the only way to go.
Pun intended, LoL
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#20 Apr 09 2004 at 8:09 AM Rating: Decent
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to get an m1 license do you already need a regular class C license?
#21 Apr 09 2004 at 8:57 AM Rating: Good
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bikes give you great scars to show your friends. i could show you a couple good ones.
#22 Apr 09 2004 at 7:04 PM Rating: Good
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to get an m1 license do you already need a regular class C license?


Nope Hippo, you don't need a Class C license to get an M1 (or M2, for that matter). You would, however, need to take the written exam that people applying for a Class C license have to take, as well as the written and driving motorcycle exams.

Also, if you are under 18, you have to successfully complete the MSF class. And I believe you have to be at least 16-1/2 to get an M1 license.

#23 Apr 09 2004 at 9:47 PM Rating: Decent
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bikes give you great scars to show your friends. i could show you a couple good ones.



I don't have a single scar from motorcycling. I got a bruise once though, does that count?

I've got lots of others though, just none from motorcycling.

#24 Apr 09 2004 at 10:28 PM Rating: Decent
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I don't have a single scar from motorcycling.

Clearly you've never gone 90 MPH in the rain and hydroplaned and slid for almost a mile. I have to honestly say that the first hour aftward is great untill the shock wears off and it feeles like someone power sanded your back.
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#25 Apr 10 2004 at 11:43 AM Rating: Decent
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Clearly you've never gone 90 MPH in the rain and hydroplaned and slid for almost a mile. I have to honestly say that the first hour aftward is great untill the shock wears off and it feeles like someone power sanded your back.


Nope, but I have taken more than a few spills, most at low speeds due to sand, wet paint or oil in the road. The most terrifying moment I had was hitting a dear at about 100 mph on my old CB750. Even then I didn't crash. It bent the hell out of my forks, cut the deer in half, and scared the bejeezus out of me, but I came away without a scratch.

#26 Apr 10 2004 at 1:13 PM Rating: Good
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There simply isn't need for 180+ horsepower (at the crank) for riding on the street.


*********

Praetorian
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